Exploring Niš (or: Faith in Humanity Restored)

Exploring Niš, Serbia
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01. Trip report introduction
02. Ryanair 737-800 economy class, Stockholm Skavsta to Niš
03. Hotel Sole, Niš
04. Exploring Niš
05. Ryanair 737-800 economy class, Niš to Bratislava
06. Radisson Blu Carlton Hotel, Bratislava
07. Getting from Bratislava to Vienna Airport
08. Austrian Airlines E195 economy class, Vienna to Oslo
09. Ethiopian Airlines B787 Dreamliner economy class, Oslo to Stockholm
10. Trip summary
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After the Ryanair flight from Stockholm to Niš, I felt kind of tired of the human race... But already at the hotel, or even in the ride to the hotel, the Serbs were restoring my faith in humanity. The kind of hospitality that I experienced in Serbia, I have not encountered anywhere else, except in Iran (and then I visited family) and Japan (and, well, Japan is Japan).

On my first night in Niš, I arrived quite late, but wanted to go out for a bite to eat. The receptionist was happy to suggest a restaurant, and quickly printed a map from Google maps, showing how to walk to the restaurant (where I enjoyed a delicious Shopska salad and the Serbian national dish, Pljeskavica). When I returned from the restaurant, the receptionist reminded me that they wanted to give me a drink on the house. She handed me a menu, and I sat down with a Beefeater, a nice way to end this day of travel.

The next day, I was ready to explore the city of Niš. I had contacted the organisation Niš Greeters, who can organise city walks and showing tourists around, free of charge. I were to meet one of my two greeters at 9:30, which gave me a couple of hours to explore on my own first (yes - I'm usually an early bird). I walked towards the fortress, which was built by the Ottomans in the early decades of the 18th century.

Constantine the Great was born in Niš

Crossing the river Nišava to get to the fortress

Niš fortress

I walked around the fortress grounds for a while, looking at the Bali-Begova mosque, but soon got disoriented. I thought I knew in which direction I needed to go in order to reach my next destination, but I didn't. Luckily, some workers at a gas station could point out on the map where I was, and tell me how to get where I wanted to go - the concentration camp.

The Bali-Begova mosque

Bali-Begova mosque

During the German occupation during World War II, a concentration camp was built in Niš. It was given the distastefully ironic name "Red Cross", Crveni Krst, after a Red Cross facility near the campsite. Over 30 000 Jews, Roma and Serbs were kept here, and approximately 10 000 were executed. It is one of few preserved concentration camps in Europe. The camp has been turned into a museum, but the grounds were closed this day due to the Orthodox Easter holiday. However, I managed to get a couple of photographs through a hole in the wall. The camp is a terrifying reminder of the evil that men can do, and an important reminder, considering how Jews are again treated in many parts of Europe, including the Swedish city of Malmö, where Jews have been attacked in recent years.

Crveni Krst concentration camp

Guard booths and guard tower at Crveni Krst

Heading back to the city centre along the river Nišava

"The monument to the Liberators of Niš", King Milan Square

After visiting the fortress, and getting a glimpse of the concentration camp, I met with Milja from Niš Greeters. I had told them that I wanted to see the Bubanj Memorial Park and the "Skull Tower", so Milja were to take me to Bubanj, and later during the day, we met Aleksandar, who would show me the Skull Tower.

Downtown Niš

A statue of Serbian writer Stevan Sremac, one of his characters, Kalča, and Kalča's dog

Bubanj is located on the outskirts of Niš, and in the park, three giant fists are symbolising defiance of the Nazi occupation. The fists are different in size, as a symbol of man, woman and child standing united against oppression. It was a powerful symbol, especially since this very area is where many of the 10 000 people were executed during World War II.

The three fists of Bubanj Memorial Park

A powerful symbol of standing united against oppression

As we walked back to Niš, the rain stopped. It was fun and interesting to hear Milja talk about her home town. Before she presented me to my next greeter, Aleksandar, she handed me a box of Serbian cookies. "But save some for your wife!" she told me. (Which I did - my wife and I both enjoyed the cookies!)

Fun with flags! I'm a total nerd when it comes to vexillology

Palace of Justice

Aleksandar and I headed towards the Skull Tower. Another harrowing monument that has become an important symbol. After the battle of Čegar, the victorious Ottomans constructed a tower from the skulls of the fallen Serbian rebels. Most of the skulls were removed, but some of them remain embedded in the tower wall. A chapel has been built around the tower, and I was hoping to get inside the chapel. However, just like the concentration camp, the Skull Tower was closed during Easter, so we only got to see it from the outside. Instead, Aleksandar showed me some other sights of Niš, and decided to take me to his favourite bakery, so I could try "the best burek in all of Niš".

Skull Tower (Ćele Kula) - unfortunately closed during Easter

On our way from Skull Tower back to central Niš

Čair Stadium, home of FK Radnički Niš, currently fourth in the Serbian Super Liga

On the right track - almost at the bakery!

At the bakery, Aleksandar insisted on buying me a burek. It was absolutely delicious, and I was happy to have tried both pljeskavica and burek, despite being in Serbia for such a short while.

Eating the best burek in Niš

Holy Trinity Cathedral

Every square inch covered in colourful frescoes

After exploring Niš for a few hours, it was time to walk back to the hotel, pick up my backpack, and head to the airport. Niš had truly exceeded my expectations, especially because of the Serbian hospitality. Both the hotel staff, Milja and Aleksandar had been gracious hosts showing me their city, and I was leaving Serbia with fond memories (and tasty cookies). Next stop: Bratislava!